Anticipation is key. Look ahead to see what obstacles are coming
up. Listen to the feedback coming from your feet, hands and other
senses. Stay in tune with your bike.
On V brakes and Disc brakes one finger is enough to brake and it leaves the rest of your 4 fingers to keep you
firm on the bike.
Feathering your brakes is better than
big jolts for you, your riding, your bike and the terrain. If you are skidding your bike, you are braking
wrong and probably too hard with too much back brake. This is extremely destructive to the trails.
Brake before, not in corners.
Your front brakes you much more than your back so use the front
more. It is up to 70% of the braking power and hence the effort The
trick is to use it properly. Panic grabs are a guaranteed endo
catapulting you over the handlebars.
Practice going down a steep slope using only your front
brake to slow the bike. Keep your weight back and your body low into
the bike.
Practice braking with both hands on a gently slope until a sensitive feathering touch is developed.
Once you have practised gentle planned feathering practice
emergency stops. Here before applying the brakes the rider should get
as low and far back on the bike as possible with the stomach close to
the sadlle and the chest low. The front brake should be applied
smoothly with a gradual increase of pressure. The back brake increases
the braking power and attempts should be made to minimise or stop
skidding. It's the keeping your weight right back that keeps your rear
wheel on the ground and stops the catapult effect.
Weather conditions affect braking. Wet rims increase stopping
distance. You can remove water form your rims by a very gentle
application of the brake prior to planned braking.
Type of Brakes
Two main types. Disc and V brakes. V
brakes are fine for most trail riding and are cheaper. For Downhill and
wet conditions then Discs will win for stopping power. This allows you
to brake later, making you faster. It's also less tiring because you
don't have to keep squeezing the lever so hard. This power is
consistent, effectively, regardless of temperature, rim condition, or
trail conditions right through the life of the brake. You also get
better performance in the mud. The pad wear is less and there are no
pivots to wear. Also removing wheels is easier as you don't have to
disconnect / reconnect cables. On the downside the initial cost of
Disks are higher and they are heavier generally than V brakes. They
are also easier to damage. Make sure you don't get oil on your disc or
pad. It would write off the pads and the discs would clean using
a isopropanol alcohol. If you are starting out and on a budget V brakes
have done many of us proud for years so I wouldn't fret.
Brake Lever Position
Position your levers in along the bar towards the
stem of the bike so one finger braking is easy. Also move your brakes
down at an angle to ease the position of braking whilst screaming
downhill. You can even roll your handlebars forward slightly to
maximise the best set up.
The way your brakes feel can be adjusted ( tight or soft) , so can the
amount of movement (reach) that the lever has. Small hands will
typically need the reach adjusted inward.
Be protected, wear a helmet. Have lots of fun.
Comments
#2ghost_shox 2008-01-0309:17:16We can lighten the bike before braking so as to load the bike while braking for increased traction.
#1ghost_shox 2008-01-0309:02:02While descending, front brake should be released when a root/stone/mud gets in the way. Right after the obstacle we go back to front braking again.
Comments
2008-01-0309:17:16 We can lighten the bike before braking so as to load the bike while braking for increased traction.
2008-01-0309:02:02 While descending, front brake should be released when a root/stone/mud gets in the way. Right after the obstacle we go back to front braking again.