iBikeRide.com

So this is not an article about gear you wear or about new gear to buy;). Quite simply it is about gears on your bike and although this may seem straightforward it is not always obvious to get this skill right in order to get the best out of your ride and look after you and your steed. 

First thing in getting your gear changing right is to stop thinking about your gears and to start thinking about your legs and your pedalling. You want to be spinning your pedals whether you are going uphill or downhill or on the falt. If it is either too easy to pedal or you are fighting pushing hard down on the cranks then likely you are in the wrong gear. Being in the right gear is about subtle shifts that will become a natural reflex to ensure you are pedaling comfortably (not too hard) and are  always constantly spinning in a movement that is smooth.  

The main reason to keep a constant spinning motion is to reduce fatigue. To talk science ... pedalling at a reasonably high rate of 75-100 pedals revolutions per minute is best. This requires a low pedal force and allows you to stay aerobic and so fresher for longer. But to maintain this requires frequent gear changes to deal with the constantly changing terrain we face. So if you are constantly changing gears relax. Chances are you are doing something right, not wrong;) 

Right, first some mechanics.

• Most gears on bikes are either trigger or twist grips. Both are fine although it will be easier to simultaneously be braking and changing gears (if needs be) with triggers. 

• The left hand shifter operates the front derailleur and your right hand one the rear. Each click takes you up or down one gear. Interestingly going down (a downshift) on the rear derailleur into an easier gear is actually physically sending the chain up to a higher cog giving a lower gear. Weird hey!.

 

Back to Tips:

• Riding uphill means you need to be in a lower gear to keep this spinning motion going. 
• Riding downhill likely means an up-shift at the rear (down to a smaller cog) and a up-shift at the front onto a larger chainring.
• Your legs and the speed they are turning is your tuning fork as to what to do. So as always listen to your body and your bike will follow.
• To make the shifting easier and also to maximise the life of your componetry don't do what I do and change gears whilst always pumping the bike. Ease of a little on the pedals and then do your change. This will make it smoother and lengthen the life of your gears.
• Doesn't hurt to make full use of all your gears and in time instinctively without thinking about it you will. Especially as you move into trials that mix fast and flowing to tight and technical terrain across different gradients . Saying this there are two gear combinations to avoid at all costs
  • The small chainring  at the front and the small cog at the back
  
  
  
  • the large chain ring at the front and the large sprocket at the rear.
  

(Both these combinations put too much pressure on the chain from sideways stress and are likely to cause it to snap)

• Anticipate gear changes. It is likely you are in quite a tough gear going downhill. If you remain in this gear when you hit the bottom you will not be able to get back up. This is also unfortunately why most chains snap as you fight a steep hill in a gear that is unsuited. Anticipate as best you can and change whilst going downhill in preparation for the up.
• If a hill starts to get easier going up start shifting your gears up to increase momentum and maximize energy. 

• When it comes to obstacles be wary of being in too comfortable a gear. Too little bite and obstacles will get the better of you.

• For downhillers who are racing losing chain tension and getting chain derailment can be a common problem.  I don't have the answers here I'm afraid. The problem in downhilling at speed is that you have simultaneous shifting of gears, positioning of pedals and engaging bumps which can result in the worst condition for potential derailment of the chain.  I try riding in my middle chain ring at the front keeping it  as taught as you can but away from flying off the large chain ring and have also used the large chain ring at times to maximise tension. Always a struggle not mastered it yet. There are chain tensioners you can buy to help here I hear.