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Installing Bottom Brackets and Cranks
(3 votes)
Mountain Bike Maintenance - Cranks, Bottom Brackets
Written by stumpy_dan   
Thursday, 11 October 2007

shimanoxtm761.jpg

This post covers the installation of a Shimano XT M761 Bottom Bracket, Crank and Chainring combination. There was no pain involved at all! hmnhhh! Enjoy


 

 

 

First some specifics:

 

  • This covers the installation of a Shimano XT M761 Hollowtech II triple chainset. It is an integrated bottom bracket, crank and chainring combination. Recommend you do work like this whilst checking your manufacturers guidelines (specifically on spacer insertion and torque requirements: NB see comments below for full details on Torque))
  • Also new component often come pre-lubed hence you don't see me using much lube ( I also could not lube and film..doesn't mean I didn't lube;) but check first the state of what you are using and lube as required.
  • My bike specifically has a 68mm bottom bracket. Other bikes can differ. For mine I required a particular spacer combination. Don't wing this check it out first.
  • Finally when all is done check your gears through especially if the chainrings are a different size. I actually kept my Raceface chainrings (i.e. I swapped them over from the Shimano ones as they are quite new). You do not see this on the video. 
  • Putting this piece of kit on was a lot easier than taking the old lot off in the other tutorial. All in all straightforward. Any questions please do post them in the forum using the link above or in the comments section below.
  • I did all this with one hand as the other hand held the video camera. I used a Nokia N95. Cool phone but need some type of stand;).

 

wiggle

OK... step by step

 

  • Get bike and tools ready. I used a tape measure, a bottom bracket spanner, Allen keys, pedal spanner and lube. I should, will soon and recommend you also use a custom torque tool to check out how much you tighten everything.
  •  cap0038.jpg
  • Get the adapter ready and the number of spacers together . Mine used  3 spacers each different sizes 1) 2.5mm, 2) 0.7mm 3) 1.8mm on the drive side making up 5mm in total and then one spacer on the non drive side.
  • bottom_bracket_0102.jpg bottom_bracket_0103.jpg
  • Put in the adapter drive side first first and use the bottom bracket spanner to tighten
  •  bottom_bracket_0104.jpgbottom_bracket_0105.jpg
  • Put the smaller adaptor in on the non drive side and again tighten up with the BB spanner tool
  •  bottom_bracket_0106.jpgbottom_bracket_0108.jpg
  • Pick up the drive side crank integrated with the chain rings and the BB spindle. Push through the drive side adaptor until flush. You may need to use a bot of brute force. Tip: I used a hammer gently but I put a towel over the crank to protect the surface. I couldn't do this and video at the same time.;)
  • bottom_bracket_0109.jpg
  • Once on go insert the other crank arm (note that they need to be at 180% to each other as when we ride.
  • bottom_bracket_0111.jpg
  • Insert the cap into space in crank arm facing the BB and use the other part of the BB spanner tool with an Allen to tighten up.
  • bottom_bracket_0112.jpg
  • At the top of the crank arm on the drive side is a stopper plate. Makes sure this is pushed in and flush (you may need to loosen side Allen bolts first.). In the video it isn't flush and I had to redo this later (but not on film I'm afraid) so make sure it is in right) 
  • Once in position then turn each Allen bolt gently bit by bit on one side then the other. DO NOT do one side tight then the other or you will damage the parts. CHECK your manufacturers Torque requirements.
  • bottom_bracket_0113.jpg
  • Lube your pedals and attach with pedal spanner.
  • bottom_bracket_0114.jpg
  • Go ride.
  • Ride faster.

 

postthree

 

 

 

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Comments (3)add comment

Fragy said:

0
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Thanks for taking the time to make this, gonna make it easier for me tonight. smilies/grin.gif
 
October 12, 2007
Votes: +0

Psycholist said:

0
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How about writing the torque requirement down rather than saying to check manufacturer's torque settings - all hollowtech II cranks require the same torque AFAIK - 12 to 15 Nm (Which feels like a lot more torque than is safe to put on a bolt that's threaded into Aluminium, but I haven't stripped one yet using a torque wrench). Full details on installing XT cranks here: http://cycle.shimano-europe.co...616011.pdf
And they come with the cranks when you buy them conveniently. It also gives a list of all the spacer combinations you're ever likely to need.

Also it's clearly visible in the video that the stopper plate which sits in the space pinched by the crank bolts has not been correctly positioned - it should be flush with the end of the crank in order that the pin that sticks out of the back of the plate catches the corresponding hole in the BB axle.

Welcome to the hell of replacing your BB every few months with Hollowtech II rather than every few years as is the case for Octalink...

Please don't take this as being too critical. I've worked on a hell of a lot of bikes and fixed a lot of other people's dodgy mechanical work, so seeing a guide put up which is less comprehensive than the actually pretty clear instructions shimano give you is a bit annoying.
 
October 15, 2007
Votes: +0

stumpy_dan said:

63
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Hey you certainly know your stuff! smilies/wink.gif

Firstly thanks for your comments. It's helped to make the post more useful for others like me trying to work through the mire of bike mechanics.

Thanks particularly for the information on Torque settings. First time I have done this install and wasn't aware all Hollowtech II's have the same settings. Also as I mention in the post I didn't use a Torque wrench (bad of me I know) but do recommend strongly that people do. I also agree that anyone trying this follows the manufacturers instructions closely. I did. It is a must. The post is not meant to be a replacement to this but give an additional visual aid to encourage others like me to try their hand at fixing things themselves and improve their skills set rather than just throwing it into a store and spending lots..

The thing you mentioned that impressed me most was that the stopper plate wasn't in correctly. I realised this already and have since changed it. I didn't have the video of this to re-edit unfortunately and did not think it was that noticeable in the video but hey.. u prove me wrongsmilies/wink.gif but I did make it clear in the article to ensure the stopper plate is down and inserted correctly but now there can be no mistake. I will doubly make this clear.

Again thanks for sharing.
 
October 15, 2007
Votes: +0

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